MUCH SMALLER than traditional ranges, countertop ovens are workhorses—or rather workponies. With “smart” functionality (and companion apps controlled via phones) and guided recipes, these devices are a little like having a highly responsive, deferential and no-attitude chef in the kitchen with you. Some actual chefs are big fans.

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“Unless you’re a family of six to eight, you’re never going to be using all the space in a traditional oven,” said Ron Yan, a private chef in New York, who finds that compact countertop models typically cook items more quickly and more thoroughly than a full-size appliance.

Some non-chefs report similar success. Patricia Choi, a homemaker in Redwood City, Calif., received a Brava countertop oven as a gift last summer. After a couple months of experimentation, she now relies on it for everything from making breakfast to grilling meat to baking desserts. “I would say I use the Brava for 90% of my cooking,” said Mrs. Choi. Her one regret: She’d prefer a sturdier tray that wouldn’t warp so easily.

Another gripe? The tight space inside a countertop oven can be hard to clean, said Paul Sidoriak, an amateur chef in Missoula, Mont., who owns a June Oven. His small kitchen’s dearth of actual countertop prevents him from using it as often as he’d like. He stores the June on a metal shelving unit, moving it to his island to cook. “I’d love to not have a range anymore and have the June oven in its place,” said Mr. Sidoriak.

To draw our own conclusions on whether these Easy-Bake Ovens on steroids are worth it, we pitted five models head-to-head in three basic tests: roasting broccoli, cooking frozen pizza, and baking brownies.

Photo: F. Martin Ramin/ The Wall Street Journal

1. The Zero Skill Required

Claim to Fame: The Tovala Smart Oven’s second generation (launched in 2018) pairs to its own meal delivery service (from $36/week). Scan the included meal card and the oven knows what to do. It’s programmed to auto-cook more than 850 grocery items, too, from frozen waffles to burritos. You can also use the oven to steam, bake, broil, toast or reheat your own dishes, as we did.

Test Results: The preset button for veggies left our roast broccoli slightly singed; pizza was nicely browned around the edges but underdone in the middle. A custom bake setting—40 minutes at 350 degrees—delivered brownies with admirably crisped edges and a desirably molten center. We liked the no-preheat factor but were irked by the Tovola’s inability to work when the Wi-Fi cut out.

Best For: College-dorm dwellers. Who needs school cafeteria food when you can scan, heat and eat meals almost as quickly as you can film a TikTok? From $199, tovala.com

Photo: F. Martin Ramin/ The Wall Street Journal

2. The Disco in a Box

Claim to Fame: The silver Brava, first released in 2018, cooks with pulsating light, with lamps hitting over 1,000 degrees in under a second. More than 1,000 programmed recipes walk you through ingredient prep, pan selection and optimal rack placement. It can also cook frozen food or reheat leftovers like a microwave. Monitor the cooking process via the small touch screen on top or on your app. A heat-resistant silicone pad on top serves as a trivet.

Test Results: A preset cook function over-charred our broccoli. Pizza turned out well done, but not burned—ideal for extra-crispy-crust lovers. Brownies required a seven-minute preheat and the pulsating lights left the tops unevenly browned.

Best For: A collective office. It’s quick and easy and cooking aromas are contained, so you won’t offend co-workers with your tuna melt. From $1,295, brava.com

Photo: F. Martin Ramin/ The Wall Street Journal

3. The Steam Machine

Claim to Fame: The 46-lb. Anova Precision Oven, which debuted in 2020, requires more counterspace commitment. Its proportions accommodate both convection and steam cooking, plus sous vide. This could theoretically replace your actual oven.

Test Results: We used a setting for broccoli but removed the veggies early when their edges turned brown. There’s no setting for frozen pizza, so we tried cooking to package directions (425 degrees for 12 minutes) but edges began burning after seven. We followed the app’s brownies recipe, but ours came out underdone. With preheat and cool-down required, the Anova didn’t cut the time a regular oven takes, and steam settings left us puzzled.

Best For: Aspiring gourmands with a big kitchen and time to experiment. We suspect only experienced cooks will tap this appliance’s full potential. $599, anovaculinary.com

Photo: F. Martin Ramin/ The Wall Street Journal

4. The Souped-Up Microwave

Claim to Fame: Breville’s Combi Wave 3 in 1, released in 2019, looks like a typical microwave. You can use it for basics like popcorn or reheating coffee, but it can also function like an air fryer and convection oven.

Test Results: Broccoli turned out steamed and bland, but pizza had a pleasingly golden-brown crust and caramelized cheese. Sticking a metal pan into what resembles a microwave felt wrong, but we got over it: After 35 minutes of convection baking, these brownies were the best of the bunch: crinkly on top yet rich and gooey in the middle. No app is required, and this oven is quite intuitive to use.

Best For: Non-techies, or anyone living in a cabin in the woods. It works perfectly without Wi-Fi and, unlike its rivals in our tests, there’s no fooling with app downloads or Bluetooth connections. $450, williams-sonoma.com

Photo: F. Martin Ramin/ The Wall Street Journal

5. The Friendly Multitasker

Claim to Fame: This third generation (launched 2020) of the June Oven can overwhelm you with ways to help prepare food: It can air fry, grill, stone fire, roast, dehydrate, toast, broil, reheat, proof and more. A large touch screen on the front can access nearly 900 cook programs (including specific recipes, like Korean air-fried chicken wings, and basic functions, like making bacon crispy or chewy), and the $999 Premium package comes with accessories to make them all. A performance camera inside recognizes what you put in and starts an automatic cook program.

Test Results: The June Oven perfectly roasted broccoli and delivered a crispy pizza crust without burning the cheese. A preheat was required on convection bake for the brownies, which came out fudgy in the center with nicely crisped edges. If a bit cheesy, the cute ditties that June “sang” when food was done made cooking fun.

Best For: Couples who want to reinvigorate their dinner routine. None of these ovens are large enough to cook for a larger family all at once, but June is a fine companion for more intimate meals. From $599, juneoven.com

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