In his first century AD Satires the poet Juvenal wrote of his hometown, “Here our smart clothes are beyond our means, here at Rome/A little bit extra has to be borrowed from someone’s purse./It’s a common fault; here we all live in pretentious poverty,/What more can I say? Everything in Rome comes at a price.”
Little, it seems, has changed since then, for in Rome, despite its captivating eminence as Italy’s capital city, there is much about the city that is shabby and, as with the Visigoths, Saxons and Germans who invaded and occupied it, Rome is now overrun by tourists who make moving around the monuments an exhausting effort.
The lobby of the Hotel Cavalieri is one of its most spectacular aspects.
There are, however, still hotels of great luxury and fine restaurants in Rome where paying top dollar is well worth it, if just to avoid the crush of the madding crowd of tourists tumbling off buses and dropping their luggage in the cramped lobbies of lesser hotels.
The Rome Cavalieri (Via Alberto Cadiolo 101) has been under the Waldorf Astoria aegis for fifteen years, though corporately owned by Hilton, so many taxi drivers still call it “the Hilton,” for which this was the chain’s first European hotel back in 1963 and quite a departure in modern style and location from the established hotels in the center. Set well above the city, the reclusive premises’ luxury begins in the grand foyer, with its sweeping circular staircase to the floor below. Checking in at a long reception desk has its own dramatic appeal. Rooms are among the most sumptuously decorated in Europe, very quiet and overlooking the stately greenery and sparkling blue pool.
The luxury rooms have balconies that overlook the panorama of Rome below.
There are two main restaurants here, one the renowned La Pergola, where Heinz Beck has held three Michelin stars (rare in Italy) for many years and was just listed as the finest in Rome by the Italian food guide Gambero Rosso, manifesting tasting menus of great creativity (€270 to €320) marrying tradition to modernity in dishes like char and razor clams in milk with elderberry powder; carpaccio of scallops with pomegranate and grilled cauliflower; and a ricotta-sweet cherry tart. (À la carte is
La Pergola was just listed as Rome's finest restaurant by Gambrel Rosso food and wine guide.
also available. The wine list is one of the finest, deepest, broadest in the world.
On my last visit to the Cavalieri, my wife and I dined by full moonlight by the pool at Uliveto, which is somewhat moderate in its pricing for this level of casual chic, serving dishes like tagliolini with red mullet (€31); risotto with red cabbage, steamed oysters and Sichuan pepper (€32); tournedos of beef with Piemontese wine sauce (45) and several vegetarian items.
Uliveto by the pool is the al fresco restaurant with a traditional Italian menu.
On Christmas Eve Uliveto Executive Chef Fabio Boschero will serve a five-course dinner paired with sommelier selections (€120), and on Christmas Day, Sunday Brunch in the Garden Lobby with traditional Italian cuisine and an appearance by Santa Claus (€190; €95 for children). For New Year’s there will be a cirque-style live performance and a gala five-course wine and champagne-dinner (€415 per person). Those who need recovery the next day can afford themselves the Cavalieri Grand Spa Club, which is showcasing the Natura Bissé Mediterranean Journey treatment. (€270).
InterContinental Hotel Ambasciatori just opened last May and is now the Via Veneto's most luxurious. ... [+]
In Rome’s center the InterContinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace (Via Vittorio Veneto 62), just opened last May, should bring back the luster of the Via Vento in its 1960s heyday, when the serpentine avenue was lined with great hotels and cafés where everyone from Maria Callas to Tennessee Williams sat down to Campari and espresso to regard the passing parade of Felllini-esque characters who epitomized the la dolce vita of film of the same name. That glamour had faded but the re-opening of the Ambasciatori gives Rome one of its great modern luxury hotels with the framework of historic elegance.
The lobby grand staircase has been restored and modernized at the InterContinental Hotel ... [+]
The fin de siècle building, by architect Carlo Busiri Vici, opened in 1905 to host visiting ambassadors who would have been impressed by the Renaissance cast; after World War II it became the American Embassy Library. The hotel’s décor had become dated, felt heavy and was ill-lighted by the time InterContinental began its rehabilitation in 2018. The first order of business was to re-work the grand staircase (which had somehow been painted yellow), stylizing it à la the Rome opera house, complemented by polished columns and Murano glass chandeliers by Vistosi.
Vivid colors and use of sunlight are part of all new rooms at the InterContinental Hotel ... [+]
There are now 160 very spacious, brightly lighted rooms and suites (61 with balconies), with furnishings by IA Designs, which painted the hallways in seductive dark colors with swirled marble floors.
Scarpetta is a branch of a New York restaurant at the InterContinental Hotel Ambasciatori.
The restaurant, curiously, is a branch of the U.S.-based Scarpetta and has quite a casual style for breakfast, lunch and dinner, done in burgundy, brown and terracotta tones with several very comfortable booths. Our lunch included a crudo of amberjack with ginger and chili oils and pickled red onions (€20); tagliolini and plump red shrimp with tomato, bottarga, pistachio and basil (€26); agnolotti packed with succulent short ribs (€26); a spigola bass impeccably grilled with a sweet-sour sauce (€34); espresso budino custard with hazelnut gelato (€15); and a light cheesecake with berries (€14). There is a €33 fixed price for lunch, à la carte for dinner.
The new Rooftop Bar at the InterContinental Hotel Ambasciatori echoes the glamour of the Via Veneto ... [+]
Adjacent is the Anita Lounge & Bar, while on the rooftop, with a fabulous panorama, is the shadowy Charlie’s bar (named after the figure “Goodtime Charlie”), with a good number of small plates to go with the excellent cocktail list including a torchon of creamy foie gras with brioche, marmalade and almonds (€35); shorts ribs and bone marrow sliders with horseradish cream (€24); and lobster with caviar, red onions, cherry tomato, coriander and sriracha (€27).
The Hassler Hotel is located above the Spanish Steps to the right of the chuch.
You will recall that Rome is built on seven hills, and on top of one of the highest, is The Hassler Hotel (6 Piazza Trinità dei Monti), which will remind you of all those gorgeous 1950s films shot in Rome in “Three Coins in the Fountain” and “Roman Holiday,” during whose filming Audrey Hepburn stayed at The Hassler.
Owned by the Wirth family for six generations, The Hassler once served as the U .S. Army Sir Force headquarters during World War II and re-opened in 1947 with a posh, new post-war Italian décor and an international clientele.
The Hassler's penthouse is a modern mix of the new with the traditional decor and Roman styles.
There are now 84 rooms and five suites at the Hassler, ten deluxe suites and three Presidential suites, one of which was occupied by John and Jackie Kennedy, whose table is still pointed out by the maître d’ at Imàgo restaurant with its Rooftop Terrace allowing you to gaze out over the Spanish Steps and all the glowing marble domes of Rome’s churches and St. Peter’s spread across the horizon.
Imago is the Hassler's terrace restaurant with a panorama on the Eternal City.
You choose from a menu of modernized Italian cuisine via chef Andrea Antoniini, who offers a tasting menu at €210 that mixes Italian cuisine with international flavors, as in his tuna “Niguiri”; artichokes and sweetbreads; scampi with green peppercorns; seabream “cacciatora”; spaghetti lavished with smoked sea urchins and pecorino, and squab with turnips and fragrant chamomile.
Staying at any of these hotels relieves the stresses of contemporary Rome. Dining at them shows Roman cuisine at its loftiest level.
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2023-12-04 15:17:39Z
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