Alexis Mabille Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: High Society - WWD

It’s difficult to pin down Alexis Mabille this season, showing a wide variety of silhouettes, as well as colors from black to blush to berry.

But that’s the way he likes it.

For the collection titled “Society,” he worked with the idea of a wardrobe for the woman who attends fabulous events and fundraisers, and needs gowns for her galas, but can’t predict what she might want too far ahead of time. She opens the doors of her closet to an array of Alexis Mabille dresses with swingy sheaths on offer, or off-the-shoulder versions with voluminous sleeves that read vaguely Romantic.

“This is not a thematic collection. It’s really to flatter different kinds of personalities,” he said.

There was a rainbow of reds as he reeled them off during his presentation: crimson, carmine, strawberry, raspberry, a pinkish ruby, blood and brick. Lighter pinks and a bright blue emphasized this was a color burst of a collection, in contrast to his mostly black couture offering.

Women have been clamoring for color, the designer explained, a marked shift from a decade ago when everyone wanted black. “For years we were doing a colorful collection, and they were always buying black,” he said. “Today it’s kind of the opposite trend. People need vibrant colors, maybe, to convey a positive atmosphere.”

There was still a core of black basics, including a short cape-like camisole dress that Mabille said is about “legs, legs, legs,” and a pantsuit cinched at the waist with a Brandenbourg belt for added drama.

The passementerie carried through as a closure on a wrap dress with flowing sleeves, while a simple champagne column had a folded satin collar to expose the shoulder. Fuller dresses with Chantilly lace at the collar or sleeve had a soft billow, and Mabille noted that even the very voluminous skirts were constructed without crinolines to create an easy comfort.

There’s something for every woman of means here. Mabille’s wardrobe offers options.

For more Paris Fashion Week reviews, click here.

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2024-03-02 23:53:07Z

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